[en] Vitamin C is one of the most sensitive cosmetic active ingredients. To avoid its degradation, its encapsulation into biobased carriers such as dendrimers is one alternative of interest. In this work, we wanted to evaluate the potential of two biobased glycerodendrimer families (GlyceroDendrimers-Poly(AmidoAmine) (GD-PAMAMs) or GlyceroDendrimers-Poly(Propylene Imine) (GD-PPIs)) as a vitamin C carrier for topical application. The higher encapsulation capacity of GD-PAMAM-3 compared to commercial PAMAM-3 and different GD-PPIs, and its absence of cytotoxicity towards dermal cells, make it a good candidate. Investigation of its mechanism of action was done by using two kinds of biomimetic models of stratum corneum (SC), lipid monolayers and liposomes. GD-PAMAM-3 and VitC@GD-PAMAM-3 (GD-PAMAM-3 with encapsulated vitamin C) can both interact with the lipid representatives of the SC lipid matrix, whichever pH is considered. However, only pH 5.0 is suggested to be favorable to release vitamin C into the SC matrix. Their binding to SC-biomimetic liposomes revealed only a slight effect on membrane permeability in accordance with the absence of cytotoxicity but an increase in membrane rigidity, suggesting a reinforcement of the SC barrier property. Globally, our results suggest that the dendrimer GD-PAMAM-3 could be an efficient carrier for cosmetic applications.
Disciplines :
Biochemistry, biophysics & molecular biology
Author, co-author :
Bacha, Katia ; Université de Liège - ULiège > TERRA Research Centre ; Molecular Chemistry Reims Institute UMR CNRS 7312, Reims Champagne-Ardenne University, Boîte n° 44, B.P. 1039, F-51687 Reims, France
Chemotti, Catherine ; Université de Liège - ULiège > Département GxABT > Chimie des agro-biosystèmes
Monboisse, Jean-Claude; Laboratoire de Biochimie Médicale et de Biologie Moléculaire, UMR CNRS/URCA 7369 (MEDyC), UFR Médecine, Reims Champagne Ardenne University, 51 Rue Cognacq Jay, F-51095 Reims, France
Robert, Anthony; Molecular Chemistry Reims Institute UMR CNRS 7312, Reims Champagne-Ardenne University, Boîte n° 44, B.P. 1039, F-51687 Reims, France
Furlan, Aurélien ; Université de Liège - ULiège > Département GxABT > Chimie des agro-biosystèmes
Smeralda, Willy ; Université de Liège - ULiège > Département GxABT > Microbial technologies
Damblon, Christian ; Université de Liège - ULiège > Département de chimie (sciences) > Chimie biologique structurale
Estager, Julien; Certech, Rue Jules Bordet, 45-Zone Industrielle C, B 7180 Seneffe, Belgium
Brassart-Pasco, Sylvie ; Laboratoire de Biochimie Médicale et de Biologie Moléculaire, UMR CNRS/URCA 7369 (MEDyC), UFR Médecine, Reims Champagne Ardenne University, 51 Rue Cognacq Jay, F-51095 Reims, France
Mbakidi, Jean-Pierre; Molecular Chemistry Reims Institute UMR CNRS 7312, Reims Champagne-Ardenne University, Boîte n° 44, B.P. 1039, F-51687 Reims, France
Prsic, Jelena ; Université de Liège - ULiège > TERRA Research Centre
Bouquillon, Sandrine; Molecular Chemistry Reims Institute UMR CNRS 7312, Reims Champagne-Ardenne University, Boîte n° 44, B.P. 1039, F-51687 Reims, France
Deleu, Magali ; Université de Liège - ULiège > TERRA Research Centre > Chimie des agro-biosystèmes
This research was co-funded by the European Research Development Fund and Wallonia in the scope of the France-Wallonie-Vlaanderen Interreg 2014–2020 program via the project InTiCosm (project number 1.1.338 INTICOSM).
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