Whitening effect of a dermocosmetic formulation: a randomized double-blind controlled study on melasma.

[en] Melasma is an endocrine-mediated facial hypermelanosis with epidermal and occasionally dermal components. We tested in a randomized double-blind design the effect of a whitening formulation (Thiospot intensive((R))) on this skin disorder. The product containing ethyl linoleate, thioctic acid, octadecenedioic acid, lactic acid and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate was applied twice daily for 3 months by 20 young women. Another control group of seven women received a non-skin lightening formulation. Clinical assessments were made at 1-month intervals. In addition, objective measurements of the hypermelanosis were performed using narrow-band reflectance spectrophotometry, image analysis of video-recorded ultraviolet light reflection (ULEV method) and photodensitometry of the corneomelametry test. A significant lightening effect was evidenced beginning the second month of treatment with the whitening formulation. No significant effect was observed with the control product.

Disciplines :

Dermatology

Author, co-author :

Thirion, Laurence; Centre Hospitalier Universitaire de Liège - CHU > Dermatologie

Franchimont, Claudine ; Centre Hospitalier Universitaire de Liège - CHU > Dermatopathologie

Pierard, Gérald ; Centre Hospitalier Universitaire de Liège - CHU > Dermatopathologie

Language :

English

Title :

Whitening effect of a dermocosmetic formulation: a randomized double-blind controlled study on melasma.

Publication date :

2006

Journal title :

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

ISSN :

0142-5463

eISSN :

1468-2494

Publisher :

Blackwell Publishing, United Kingdom

Volume :

Issue :

Pages :

263-7

Peer reviewed :

Peer Reviewed verified by ORBi

Available on ORBi :

since 16 March 2009

Statistics

Number of views

132 (1 by ULiège)

Number of downloads

597 (1 by ULiège)

More statistics

Scopus citations^®

Scopus citations^®
without self-citations

OpenCitations

OpenAlex citations

Bibliography

Griffiths, C.E., Finkel, L.J., Ditre, C.M. et al. Topical tretinoin (retinoic acid) improves melasma. A vehicle-controlled clinical trial. Br. J. Dermatol. 129, 415-421 (1993).
Dooley, T.P. Topical skin depigmentation agents: current products and discovery of a novel inhibitor of melanogenesis. J. Dermatolog. Treat. 8, 275-279 (1997).
Katsambas, A.D. and Stratigos, A.J. Depigmenting and bleaching agents: coping with hyperpigmentation. Clin. Dermatol. 4, 483-488 (2001).
Petit, L. and Piérard, G.E. Skin-lightening products revisited. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 25, 169-181 (2003).
Piérard, G.E. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of skin colour. J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. 10, 1-11 (1998).
Takiwaki, A. Measurement of skin color: practical application and theoretical considerations. J. Med. Invest. 44, 121-126 (1998).
Piérard, G.E. Narrow-band spectrophotometry and tristimulus colorimetry for the assessment of skin colour. G. Int. Dermatol. Pediatr. 8, 193-196 (1996).
Hermanns, J.F., Petit, L., Hermanns-Lê, T. and Piérard, G.E. Analytic quantification of phototype related regional skin complexion. Skin Res. Technol. 7, 168-171 (2001).
Yoshimura, K., Harri, K., Masudo, Y. et al. Usefulness of a narrow-band reflectance spectrophotometer in evaluating effects of depigmenting treatment. Aesthetic Plast. Surg. 25, 129-133 (2001).
Takiwaki, A., Miyaoka, Y., Skrebova, N. et al. Skin reflectance-spectra and colour value dependency on measuring head aperture area in ordinary reflectance spectrophotometry and tristimulus colorimetry. Skin Res. Technol. 8, 94-97 (2002).
Hermanns, J.F., Petit, L., Piérard-Franchimont, C., Cauwenbergh, G. and Piérard, G.E. Unraveling the patterns of subclinical phaeomelanin-enriched facial hyperpigmentation. Effect of depigmenting agents. Dermatology 201, 118-122 (2000).
Hermanns, J.F., Henry, F., Piérard-Franchimont, C. and Piérard, G.E. Quantification analytique du vieillissement du système mélanocytaire. Implication dans la determination objective du risque de cancers cutanés. Ann. Gerontol. 15, 233-239 (2001).
Hermanns, J.F., Petit, L., Piérard-Franchimont, C., Paquet, P. and Piérard, G.E. Assessment of topical hypopigmenting agents on solar lentigines of Asian women. Dermatology 204, 281-286 (2002).
Petit, L., Piérard-Franchimont, C., Saint Léger, D., Loussouarn, G. and Piérard, G.E. Subclinical speckled perifollicular melanosis of the scalp. Eur. J. Dermatol. 12, 565-568 (2002).
Petit, L., Fogouang, L., Uhoda, I. et al. Regional variability in mottled photo-induced melanoderma in the elderly. Exp. Gerontol. 38, 327-331 (2003).
Quatresooz, P., Petit, L., Uhoda, I., Piérard-Franchimont, C. and Piérard, G.E. Mosaic subclinical melanoderma: an Achilles heel for UV-related epidermal carcinogenesis. Int. J. Oncol. 25, 1763-1767 (2004).
Ortonne, G.P., Balotti, R. Melanocyte biology and melanogenesis: what's new? J. Dermatol. Treat. 11, S15-S26 (2000).
Curto, E.V., Kwong, C., Hermersdörfer, H. et al. Inhibitors of mammalian melanocyte tyrosinase: in vitro comparisons of alkyl esters of gentisic acid with other putative inhibitors. Biochem. Pharmacol. 57, 663-672 (1999).
Seiberg, M., Paine, C., Sharlow, E., Andrade-Gordon, P., Costanzo, M., Eisinger, M., Shapiro, S. The protease-activated recptor-2 regulates pigmentation via keratinocyte-melanocyte interactions. Exp. Cell Res. 254, 25-32 (2000).
Wiechers, J.W., Rawlings, A.V., Garcia, C. et al. A new mechanism of action for skin whitening agents: binding to the peroxisome proliferator- activated receptor. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 27, 123-132 (2005).
Cario-Andre, M., Bessou, C., Gontier, C. et al. The reconstructed epidermis with melanocytes: a new tool to study pigmentation and photoprotection. Cell Mol. Biol. 45, 931-942 (1999).